So Many Panama Canal Cruisers STILL Get These (Make-or-Break) Things Wrong

I have some key Panama Canal cruise tips as I have done the Panama Canal transit four times, and, on every trip, I see passengers making the same mistakes that gets in the way of making it their adventure of a lifetime. In fact, some errors are easy to make in the thrill of booking a Panama Canal trip, as I found to my loss on my recent Regent Grandeur transit where I had not checked on a major factor in making a Panama Canal cruise the best it can be.

So, welcome aboard, I’m Gary Bembridge and here are my Panama Canal  Cruise Tips with the 5 things I have learnt the hard way that you need to know about doing a Panama Canal cruise.

It’s Not A Canal

The first thing most people don’t appreciate is that the Panama Canal is not actually a canal!

While the other famous canal, the 120-mile Suez Canal, is a long, continuous, canal running at sea level, the Panama Canal is not.

It instead has locks at either end to raise and then lower ships 85 feet to and from a vast lake. This allows ships to sail 50 miles across Panama to and from the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

Let me show you what it is like transit the Panama Canal based on that recent Regent Seven Seas Grandeur cruise from Miami to Los Angeles.

First, early in the morning we sailed past the Panama City of Colon and under the Atlantic Bridge towards the Gatun Locks.

Gatun Locks

Once at the locks small metal trucks called Mules were attached at the front and rear of the ship. These held the ship in centre of the locks while ship used its own power to sail through. We then were raised up 85 feet to the Gatun Lake in series of three locks.

It was an incredible experience as I watched the vast gates close behind us, and water pumped in raising our ship up. Once up, the gates in front opened and we sailed into the next lock and repeated the process.It is thrilling as vast freight ships passed down next to us on the parallel set of Gatun locks heading the other way.

Gatun Lake

Once up, we left the Gatun locks and sailed through the vast man-made Gatun Lake, passing cruise and freight ships heading the other way, until we reached Gamboa. This town was built to house people building the canal and now where the Panama Canal dredging operation is based.

Culebra Cut

Not long after there, we headed into and along the narrow channel blasted deep into hard rock about 9 miles long and only 120 feet deep. It is now known as the Culebra Cut but used to be called the Galliard Cut after the key engineer responsible for overseeing building it.

Pedro Miguel and Miraflores Locks

After passing under the Centennial Bridge, we sailed towards two sets of locks to lower us the 85 feet back to sea level.

First, we sailed into the single San Pedro lock and, after having the mules attached again, the gates closed and this time the water levels fell using gravity to lower our ship.

Once out we then sailed the short distance to the two-lock Miraflores lock. Once in the Miraflores locks, the process was repeated as the gates closed and we were lowered by the two locks to sea level. All the time watched and waved at by visitors to the popular Miraflores Visitor Center with viewing platform.

After leaving those locks, we sailed under the Bridge of the Americas, past Panama City in the distance and into the Pacific. The transit took all day. We entered the Gatun locks around 8am and sailed into the Pacific near Panama City 10 hours later just before 6pm.

Of course, if you transit from the Pacific to the Atlantic it is all in the opposite order.

I am often asked: which is the best way to go? More on that later, as first I want to discuss the huge mistake many people make even when they understand what the Panama Canal is.

The Two Options

There is not just one Panama Canal to transit but two quite different routes depending on the size of cruise ship you book. This is a huge issue as, in my view, one route is a better experience than the other and is THE must do.

The original route, which opened in 1914, uses those sets of locks that I went through. But only ships of a certain size can fit in and use them, what are known as Panamax ships.

As the size of freight ships grew meant only a third could pass through the old canal locks, a new set of locks at both sides were built and opened in 2016. These take what are known as New Panamax or Neo-Panamax size ships.

This doubled the capacity of ships able to pass through the canal system and now means many large and mega cruise ships including Cunard Queen Mary 2, Celebrity Edge Class ships, Norwegian Bliss and Prima class, Sun Princess and so on can go through the new Panama Canal locks.

What are the new locks?

On the Atlantic side large ships use the wider and longer three-tier Agua Clara Locks, and on the Pacific side they use the wider and longer Cocoli Locks.

Unlike the original canal instead of gates that swing close, the new ones have large sliding gates.

The ships, whether using the original or new locks, all sail through the Gatun Lake and Culebra Cut between them.

I could see the entrance to the new Agua Clara locks while we headed into the Gatun locks off to our left, and as we sailed towards the Pedro Miguel locks the channel leading to the Cocoli Locks was off to our right, and then as we left the Miraflores I could see the new Cocoli locks.

In my view, one of the key Panama Canal cruise tips is that the original 1914 canal is THE canal to go through for the following reasons:

First, it is the most dramatic, visually interesting and has an incredible history and story to discover. It is the historic, original one and a must do if doing the Panama Canal is your bucket list dream.

Second, the cruise ships fit very snuggly in, with often as little as foot each side which is thrilling to experience. The new are wider and larger, with more space and lack that drama.

Third, the original locks are largely still using the original 1914 lock gates and watching them swing open and closed is more exciting than sliding doors of the new.

Fourth, the original uses those Mules attached to the ship to keep the ship centred, which the drivers use bell signals to communicate. While in new locks they use tugboats.

The old canal is the most dramatic and iconic. And is the one that you should do if you possibly can.

How Will You Know Which One?

I am frequently asked how do you know if the Panama Canal cruise you are considering goes through the new or old locks.

It is not straightforward as the lines will usually not confirm, even if you ask them. But here is another of my Panama Canal cruise tips of something I do that has worked to date.

First, check the ship size. If it is Panamax size or smaller it will almost certainly go through the original locks as that is what lines know passengers want and is best use of the canal.

So, lines with smaller ships like Regent, Crystal, Silversea, Seabourn, Viking, Oceania, Azamara and Windstar are a good choice. I have been through on Oceania Marina which holds 1,200 passengers for example.

Also, lines with medium sized ships like Vista Class ships that take up to 2,000 like Cunard Queen Victoria that I have transited through and Queen Elizabeth, and in Holland America like Koningsdam that I have also been through the old locks on.

If unsure, also check in the fans of a line Facebook groups or Cruise Critic Boards to get recent passengers to confirm which locks the ship that you are looking at used.

There is then another major mistake I see people make before finally deciding on the ship, and that is checking if it offers the best way to see the canal and this brings me to my next set of Panama Canal cruise tips.

Wrong Ship Experience

I have found that not all ships are good to get the most of a Panama Canal transit.

You want to go on a ship which has the best places to do viewings, especially those forward facing and in open air, so not behind by glass.

My recent Regent Grandeur was not one, and even I messed up by not checking on this.

On Grandeur the only place and way to see the canal and locks ahead was sitting behind glass windows in the Observation lounge overlooking the bow. It was frustrating.

However, on both Queen Victoria and Holland America Zuiderdam, those ships designs allowed the bow to be opened for passengers to be up front and get closer to the locks. Both also had full promenade decks deck to see the Mules and operations close.

How do you know which will do that?

Again, the same approach I mentioned earlier as with my other Panama Canal cruise tips, ask the line but check with recent passengers in Facebook and Cruise Critic groups.

I also recommend choosing a line that has a reputation for great enrichment as having good expert Panama Canal speakers adds a lot. The Panama Canal Authority will supply a guide on the day to provide narration, but I have found them variable.

Another mistake I see people making is dismissing a Panama Canal cruise due to budget or time issues, or where they really want to do one, but their partner is lukewarm. There are three options you have on cruises for the Panama Canal that could solve all those issues.

Cruise Options

Having done all three types I want to share what they are, and who I think each is best for and why.

Full Transit

The obvious one is the full transit I have been speaking about, and what most cruise ships do.

This is one for the bucket list, and for cruisers who want to see every detail and be able to say they’ve done the full iconic Panama Canal transit. But you need to time and budget for this as most of these trips are 10- to 14-day cruises.

They tend to take place at the start and end of the Alaska season as ships move to and from the Caribbean, as part of World or Grand Voyages, for example like the one I did on Queen Victoria, or as dedicated Panama Cruises like the Miami to Los Angeles I did on Regent Seven Seas Grandeur and I did on Oceania Marina from Panama City to Miami.

Partial Transit

The second option, if you want to get a taste of the Panama Canal but mostly want a Southern and West Caribbean cruise, is to do partial transit cruise out of Florida like I did on Holland America Zuiderdam.

These have a mix of Caribbean ports and head up the Gatun Locks, turn around in the Gatun Lake and come back down, though they then offer excursions, where you tender off in the lake and meet the ship back in Colon.

These include things like the Gamboa Aerial Tramway visit to the rainforest, small boat trips on the Gatun Lake to the islands to see monkeys, birds, and crocodiles, and for those wanting more of the canal, tours to either the new Agua Clara Lock system or the Miraflores visitor centre to watch ships passing through there. Or you can even complete the transit on a small tourist boat and get a coach back to the ship which waits in Colon for the excursions.

These cruises are usually 10-days long.

Panama Port Cruise

The third option, which I did on Oceania Insignia and is shorter, is do a 7-night Western Caribbean cruise that calls into Colon.

From Colon those same excursions were available, with the added ability to do the historic Panama Train from Colon to Panama City. So, it’s great if you have limited time or only one, or a few, of your party wants to see and experience the Panama Canal as an excursion.

Once you have decided to go, there are several mistakes that I see people making as they prepare to head off that I need to cover.

Being Panama Canal Ready

Being ready to get most of the Panama Canal, starts before you leave home.

First, learn about the history and the politics of the canal. It is fascinating and disturbing too. Like over 22,000 people died in the failed French attempt and discover the extreme political lengths the USA went to make the Panama Canal happen.

The book most rely on, and I highly recommend is David McCullough’s “The Path Between the Seas. The Creation of the Panama Canal”. You’ll find links in the notes of this.

USA Amazon: https://amzn.to/3E3QV65
UK Amazon: https://amzn.to/3CdECnb

Second, there are some key things to pack.

You’re going to be outside for a long time. It’s hot, it’s sticky, and you can get very sunburnt, so take a hat ideally with a brim all the way around, sunglasses, sunscreen, and clothes suitable for a hot humid day with comfy shoes.

On the day as you will be outside for a while, really suncream up. I made the big mistake of not putting it on the back of my neck and got very burnt there.

Also, as you will take loads of photos and videos be prepared. If using your phone, a charger unit is a good idea, if camera then extra batteries and SD cards.

Once on the cruise I recommend three key things.

First, go to all the talks and briefings and check the daily program to know how the day will work, what viewing areas on the ship will be available, and expected timings for the locks so you know when to be up, where to be, and when you can plan breaks and lunch.

Second, the main viewing area (be it the bow or the observation lounge) will have people staking claim to the best spots early. So, be ready to get yours. Over the course of the day that will thin out.

Third, don’t just stay in that spot. Move around the ship and especially go to the Promenade Deck to see the locks and Mules within stretching distance at times and go to the rear of the ship as great views watching the gates close.

When you go through the Gatun Lake and Culebra Cut, don’t really worry about being out all the time. It’s interesting, but less to see and so good for downtime, resting and eating.

I hope you found my Panama Canal cruise tips helpful, and if you have any tips you think future Panama Canal cruisers need to know please leave them in the comments.